Lapped Zipper

The lapped zipper application conceals the zipper with a fold of the fabric. Only one row of stitching is visible on the correct side of the garment. The lapped zipper application method is especially suitable for neckline zippers on dresses and back openings on skirts and pants.

Machine stitch the seam, up to the zipper opening.
Press open the seam allowance needed for the zipper.

Note: Home sewing patterns usually allow 5/8-inch seam allowance for zippers. Industry patterns allow a 3/4-inch to 1-inch seam allowance.

Working on the left seam allowance, slide out and pin this seam allowance to 1/8 -inch to 1/4-inch beyond the pressed seamline.
With the zipper closed and the correct side of the zipper and fabric area facing up, position one edge of the zipper teeth next to the folded extended seam allowance. Pin in place.

Note: The zipper tape extends into the seam allowance on the upper edge of the garment.

Using a...