Self Bond & Mock French

Self-Bound
This finish is designed for light weight fabrics. It is well suited to sheer or see-through items, especially when other finishes do not give them an attractive appearance, as in a sleeve cap or arm hole. At least a 5/8-inch seam allowance is required.
Steps:

Begin with a plain seam. Trim one seam allowance to 1/8 inch.
Turn remaining seam allowance under 1/8 inch and press.
Turn the folded seam allowance edge again over the 1/8 inch seam allowance so that it is enclosed/encased. Stitch close to the folded edge and the first line of stitching. This last stitching can be done by hand or machine.

Mock French
This seam works on the same fabrics as the French seam. It looks like a plain seam from the right side and a small enclosed double stitched seam on the underneath side. It can be constructed by hand but is usually done on a sewing machine. This seam is used when a French seam cannot be handled well,...